2 months on, I feel like I’ve aged a million years and the wrinkled, dry, flaky eczematic skin on my knuckles didn’t help assuage that dreadful feeling of being old.
I’ve taken to calling the country, Turdmenistan – a shitty pun, I know. It’s difficult for me to speak objectively about the country and to give me some other perspectives, I’ve taken to reading about Turkmenistan online now that I’m back in Singapore with 24/7 internet access. I’ve yet to read Turkmenistan’s most famous book but if you’ve an interest, it’s available online here in 22 languages. Strangely enough, it’s not (yet) available in Mandarin.
I’m wondering if the inhabitants of Ashgabat are of a different breed of those in the other regions. I’ve read about genuine smiles and curiosity but those are extremely unfamiliar to me. All I see on a daily basis are hostile stares and wary looks, people slowing down their cars to gawk. Maybe we need to travel out of Ashgabat and I know that we should but right now, I’m simply uninterested in this country.
Anyway, the locals come in an assortment of ethnicities. The majority is probably Turkmen and the other most obvious ethnic group is Russian. In every bazaar, there seems to be at least a Korean shop selling various types of kimchi and pickled vegetables. I’ve tasted some before and it’s a very poor imitation of what you can find outside of this food-vacuum. We’ve also met an Armenian whom we keep bumping into at airports and the ex-neighbour who gave us Winch is Georgian. There are also people of Indian descent.
Turkmen men tend to carry really stupid hair cuts (a half-bowl) while the Turkmen women are really attractive, slim and generous at the top and bottom. They’re really quite fetching in the elegant traditional dress which is not unlike the qipao in its silhouette – fitted from the top to the hips, then However,most middle-aged and old Turkmen women are, bluntly put, fat and the elegance of the traditional dresses they wear disappears – the item of clothing is more tent than dress.
Russian men and women tend to conform to my (negative) stereotypes. Men have short hair, often crew-cut and are burly in size. Many women are platinum blonde with overgroomed eyebrows, and sport makeup plastered on with a trowel. They also have a penchant for skimpy clothes with animals prints though that might give way to big furs with animal prints soon.
In general, the women favor stilettos of at least 3 inches while the men like shiny pointy leather shoes and undershirt vests. English among the older generation is almost non-existent although school-going kids and undergrads may speak a little.

